New Delhi: This year’s Met Gala pays homage to a lesser-known element of fashion history — Superfine: Tailoring Black Style inspired by Black Dandy or Dandyism, which refers to a cultural and aesthetic movement that challenged racial and gender stereotypes through fashion and self-presentation. This Year’s theme is inspired by scholar Monica L Miller’s book, ‘Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity’.

The exhibition charts the evolution of the Black Dandy from the 18th century to today. It narrates the story of the power, pride, resistance and joy of the attire suits, which is referred to as highly stylish, often vintage, elegant attire, tailored, and expressive.

What is Black Dandy?

Dandyism is a cultural movement that emerged in the 18th and 19th centuries in Europe, where mostly upper-class or bourgeois men would craft their image through impeccable fashion, sharp wit, graceful manners and a sense of superiority. The style often draws on Victorian or Edwardian-era European fashion, African cultural aesthetics and modern street style. However, the concept is more than fashion, it’s a form of creativity, resistance, and identity assertion.

It is a historical movement that emerged in late 18th-century Britain and flourished in 19th-century Europe, particularly in France and England. It was primarily a philosophy of style, behaviour and individualism, which is centred around self-presentation.

The key traits of Dandy are immaculate grooming and tailored clothing, a calm and aloof demeanour. Another key trait of Bollywood is irony, wit, and satire in speech.

In the history of dandyism, Beau Brummell, who is considered the first true dandy. He influenced men’s fashion with his understated yet elegant style, tailored suits, crisp white shirts and an emphasis on cleanliness. Another renowned personality was Oscar Wilde, who elevated dandyism to an art form, mocking Victorian social hypocrisy. The French poet, Charles Baudelaire, saw dandyism as a spiritual revolt against the banality of the industrial age.

Additionally, people of African origin in colonial and post-colonial societies were often denied access to social power, respect and even basic dignity. So, clothing became their tool for subversion, reclamation and resistance.